Pacific

March 14

Today the ocean is truly peaceful. Still headed south with occasional diversions to follow whales; today blue whales and humpbacks. Overnight we will be rounding Cabo about 4:00am and will wake up in the Sea of Cortez.

Some images from the last two days:
Frigate bird catches the rays of the setting sun.
Wall inside abandoned lighthouse.
Door to fish cold storage building.
Panga driver Chavalo.
Humpback whale fluke.

Laguna San Ignacio!

What a day. We cross over the bar to enter the laguna a little after breakfast and anchor in the outer part of the protected sanctuary. The Searcher is one of three boats with permits to enter this wildlife preserve. We soon start out and spend six hours on small pangas, driven by the local fishermen. Four separate excursions, and each one is a different experience. This bay is noted for "friendly " gray whales who will approach the boats and enjoy being touched by us - amazing to look into the eye of a whale a foot away from yours. One boat (not mine) took it to the extreme and all eight of them kissed their whale. These whales have given birth within the past several months and mothers and calfs , bonded by nursing, approach together. There are so many whales here, I can't imagine how many I saw today - Some calm, some curious, some playful. I'm sure I can see personality differences between the whales we see.

Later, during desert (Bananas Foster)  we break to go onto the rear deck to view the new crescent moon and the just visable comet, which will hopefully be with us for the next several days. The comet is easily visible with binoculars and is one of the many highlights of day. After dinner is a final highlight as the captain shuts off all lights and generator and we see the spectacular stars and hear Michael's far ranging star talk. Later, in absolute silence we gaze at those stars, and listen to the breathing of maybe a dozen whales within earshot, the splashing of the ones closer, then the squeeky wingbeats of surf scoters flying low over the water,  and the call of a distant loon.

Underway

Monday March 11

Our first two days are concentrated on covering ground, proceeding down the Pacific coast of Baja. After one full day and night underway we stop at Isla San Benito for a nice long hike. On the map, we are just off the tip of the big thorn-shaped peninsula that juts out into the Pacific. When we make our landing, we are at a small community that is seasonally occupied by lobster and abalone fishermen. It is a rugged, utilitarian setting but there is a sweet little chapel with an inscription over the door asking for protection during their work at sea. A few men are bringing in a catch which they share as a community co-op, so unfortunately they cannot share with us. On the other side of the island, the elephant seal colony is quiet,with only pups and a few females remaining after the big males have left on migration. There are 24 people strung out along the trail as we climb to the top of the island and out to the abandoned lighthouse. The lighthouse is accessible and the climb up the spiral stairs leads to the top  where the old Fresnel  lens sits in disrepair. Armando had worked on a restoration of the Point Reyes lighthouse and he gives a breif lesson on the history and function of the old lighthouses. Wonderful bit of engineering. We walk back along the trail in silence  at Michael's suggestion, each to our own thoughts. Back on board now and looking forward to dinner pork roast with red onion marmalade and roasted red potatoes. You see, this is the first time I have had an appitate.

Packing List

Tom asked to see my whole packing list - I don't know if he was kidding or not, but here is the list I put together when planning for the trip. I'm trying to get it all to fit right now. I'll be on my way at 3:00 pm!