Oldest Things

It is  probably fitting that our first visit to the edge of the desert should be just in time for a sandstorm. The Step Pyramid is thought to be the oldest stone structure in the world, built nearly five thousand years ago. Is this the begining of architecture? The pyramid, and others nearby are greatly eroded by the sand and wind and we are treated to a cold wind and fine sand that gets into eyes, nose and mouth. Bandana keeps it away form all but the eyes and they bother me. It is a relief to descend into the Pyramid of Teti nearby. We go down a narrow, steep corridor - stooping below the low stone ceiling. The burial chamber is simple, with stars cut into the roof slabs - quite nice, buried deep into the bedrock below the pyramid. The conditions back above ground are pretty rotten, and Ahmed cancels the afternoon visit to the Great Pyramid in favor to a visit back to the old part of Cairo - this time to the traditional Christian sector. Cairo was a center of early Christianity and much of the heritage is preserved in church architecture and a wonderful museum of Coptic Christian art. We visit a sight where tradition holds that was visited by Mary, Joseph and young Jesus after they fled the Holy Land. The Coptic church survives today, having split from other Christian faiths with a belief system that they feel maintains the original beliefs of the faith. It's a bit complicated.

Around Cairo

It is just as well that cameras are not permitted in the Cairo Museum. We spend the better part of the morning here but I would be here for a week if cameras were allowed. Fantastic. Our guide, Ahmed, has is favorite things to see, and we see them all but barely scratch the surface. I had known of the King Tut treasures, but seeing the thousands of items in the exhibit is remarkable. The familiar gold mask is adorned with thousands of intricate inlays when seen up close, and it is rightfully the centerpiece of the exhibit. Later I look into the face of Rameses the Great and other rulers who are preserved in the Mummy Room. He has red hair. 

After lunch we walk the streets of old Islamic Cairo and try to absorb more recent history from Cairo around 1100 ad. Not too many tourists, but the richness of the busy street life catches my attention more than the architecture.

 

arrival

From the air, all of Cairo looks to be a uniform grey-brown; the same color of the desert that surrounds it. Frankly pretty gloomy. But taking the long, traffic snarled ride from the airport
we are able to see some color, tree lined streets, and busy urban activity.Big city. Biggest in Africa. Now morming coffee and a chance to see where we ended up, in Giza, by the Pyramids!

Uncle Gus

When I looked online and found the etching that is posted at the top of this page, There was something familiar about it and a bit of family history floated to the top of my memory. My second great uncle (I think) on my mother's side of the family was an accomplished illustrator - Agustus Hoppin, or Uncle Gus. 

Growing up, we were all told stories of his talents and accomplishments, including a book of illustrations and brief written vignettes of his travels to Egypt in, I think, 1873. The original travel blog!
I remembered seeing a sketch of the Spinx that he had done and it always fascinated me when I was young because he visited it before the whole body was uncovered. Just a head in the desert. 

(The images are courtesy of Harvard University Library online site)

What makes this interesting, aside from his talented illustrations, is that for thousands of years visitors to Egypt have had an opportunity to share similar experiences. His experiences are relatively current.