Only Photos

 

Some images from the last few days

Night on the Beach

Tonight we are treated to a barbaque on a small beach as the boat is tied up next to an island in the Nile. Good food, singing and drumming by the crew and dancing by all in good cheer. Later we are joined by two migrant farmers, Ibrihim and Mohammed, who are camped nearby in the fields where they are planting melons  and are drawn to our fire. They share some desert and Ahmed translates some of their thoughts about their life and their thoughts about the revolution. They are hopeful, thinking that anything is better than the past under Mubarik and they have voted in the recent elections. I am surprised that these guys - one old and one young, who led an extremely simple life of hard work are able to participate in the new politics. They have both voted for a religious party candidate, but their reasons are practical, not religious.  They feel the future of the country is uncertain and the religious parties have gained the trust of the people initially, but now they will have to produce. Ibrihm is the older and has a a weathered face that lights up with a great smile. He squats near the fire great with his palms towards the heat. Mohammed sits to his right and tends our fire by adding palm branches from time to time. They both wish us all a warm goodnight as we return returnto the boat.

Now back on-board and the still of the evening is being disrupted by a religious rally on the opposite shore. Much music over on that side too, but they also have microphones to blare their message. The speaker across the river sounds like he is preaching fire and brimstone. I wait for them to quiet down and go home, and they eventually do.

All in all, this evening is giving me much to think about. The genuine good nature of the crew as we share their entertainment. The future of our two visitors, and the direction that their country will take. And the role that religion and faith takes in all aspects of people's lives -

Colossi on the Plains of Thebes

We are on the Nile, sailing South for the next five days on a classic two masted dahabia. Six cabins and a crew of maybe six. This morning was busy with visits to the tombs in the Valley of the Kings and Valley of the Queens. Standing in King Tut's tomb I am surprised how small it is, compared to the others we see. Near the tombs are the ancient Colossi of Memnon, where Uncle Gus waxed poetic nearly 140 years ago.

 

Oldest Things

It is  probably fitting that our first visit to the edge of the desert should be just in time for a sandstorm. The Step Pyramid is thought to be the oldest stone structure in the world, built nearly five thousand years ago. Is this the begining of architecture? The pyramid, and others nearby are greatly eroded by the sand and wind and we are treated to a cold wind and fine sand that gets into eyes, nose and mouth. Bandana keeps it away form all but the eyes and they bother me. It is a relief to descend into the Pyramid of Teti nearby. We go down a narrow, steep corridor - stooping below the low stone ceiling. The burial chamber is simple, with stars cut into the roof slabs - quite nice, buried deep into the bedrock below the pyramid. The conditions back above ground are pretty rotten, and Ahmed cancels the afternoon visit to the Great Pyramid in favor to a visit back to the old part of Cairo - this time to the traditional Christian sector. Cairo was a center of early Christianity and much of the heritage is preserved in church architecture and a wonderful museum of Coptic Christian art. We visit a sight where tradition holds that was visited by Mary, Joseph and young Jesus after they fled the Holy Land. The Coptic church survives today, having split from other Christian faiths with a belief system that they feel maintains the original beliefs of the faith. It's a bit complicated.