Fishing off the Dock

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Part of the daily routine involves at least one swim session in the lake to cool off from the day's heat. There is pier and dive platform and the water is cool and refreshing below a warm surface layer. After a couple days of swimming, our guide Daniel asks if we would like to go piranha fishing off the pier. This is not a complete surprise because our orientation did explain that there were piranhas in the lake, but that the local species was "mostly" vegetarians. So several of us try our hand but are a little surprised when the bait turns out to be raw meat! 

All of the piranhas that we catch are about the size of my hand - too small to eat, and are released back to the lake. I did swim one more time later in the day, but it was a very quick dip.

Above the Canopy

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Much of what we do here has to be either by canoe or by hiking on trails through the forest. The only access is by a mile long trail from the river and then by canoe across the lake. One feature here however is unique and that is the series of steel towers and suspended walkways high above the forest canopy. I'm talking 150 feet above the ground, giving unobstructed views into the activity in the treetops. In the late afternoon, as the temperature cools a little, birds become more active, although a group of howler monkeys are still napping at the top of a tree over 10 stories in the air. Between three towers are walkways with rope handrails and mesh sides, in my mind only slightly more stable than an Indiana Jones bridge.

In fact, my reaction to the height is a little stronger than I had anticipated - more precisely, I am petrified.

Something about having air on five sides of you, so I look down at the walkway and concentrate on breathing. On the towers where we spend time viewing, I am much less freaked out and can enjoy the sunset. Down from the towers, we hike about a mile back to the lodge in growing darkness and the forest is alive with the sound of cicadas - really loud cicadas. Along the way we see flying click beetles that glow like fireflies.

To the Rainforest

Monday, January 24, 2011

We fly from Quito (at 9,200 ft) to Coca (at 900 ft in the Amazon basin). That involves gaining altitude for about ten minutes to get out of Quito and then descending out of the Andes all the way to hot, sticky Coca which an oil town that is on the Rio Napo. The Napo is a tributary of a tributary of the Amazon, but it is still a half mile wide and three thousand miles from the sea.

We are going to Sacha Lodge which is a two hour, high speed boat ride downriver in a needle shaped boat that throws a high spray wake. There is a driver at the outboard in the rear, and a spotter at the bow, looking out for sandbars or floating debris in the coco colored water. The lodge is set back from a small lake and access is only by a 1 mile hike from the river followed by canoe across the lake.

Otavalo Market

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Back from the Galapagos, we head north to Otavalo, a region with a strong indigenous culture. The Otavalenos were conquered by the Inca empire in the 1500's, and then by the Spanish about 50 years later - bad luck. But before, during and after all the conquering, they have maintained strong traditions. The market in Otavalo is the big draw for locals and tourists alike. Friday morning at the animal market is organized chaos. pigs, chickens, cows, guinea pigs (favorite food), and people wander the field where the market is set up.

Food vendors are selling their goods and a man is selling dishware out of the back of a truck - giving a sales pitch with amplified microphone. There is even an black voodoo witch doctor selling potions. The food market is a short walk away, stretching for many blocks with a wild variety of local foods, fruit and grains. The arts and crafts market is a bit further on, with hundreds of small stalls selling items for visitors. Prices are low and much to choose from. Perhaps the high point of the two days is not the market, but visits to a musician and his family to see traditional instruments made. Next day a local weaver demonstrates traditional techniques. It is all very wonderful.