We land at Baltra island, a WW II US military base and our boat waits at the end of a five minute drive. Sea lions and sea iguanas are greeting us the wharf as we wait for our panga ride out to the boat. In no time at all we are under way to a nearby mangrove bay to look for sea turtles from our two pangas. In a little while we cut the outboard motors as the pangas work their way into increasingly narrow channel and our 'driver', Israel,
takes out a single oar to navigate the twisting channel. Michael asks all of us for a quiet time of about five minutes to appreciate the surroundings so both boats fall silent. I hear only the swoosh if Israel's oar as he gently pulls us forward. Then the soft exhale as a sea turtle surfaces, swimming towards us. Soon the rustle of mangrove branches as a lava heron picks its way along the tideline. Little sounds seem magnified by our solitude. The quiet time puts all in a tranquil frame of mind, and takes away some of my first day apprehension - putting me in the hear and now.
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