On our last full day at Skeleton Coast Camp we do our full-day drive and go up a dry river bed that eventually has water. We are tracking lions from their prints in the sand. We stop for a coffee break, and as we leave, our guide Kallie spots the lions across the river. We maneuver so we can see the whole pride sleeping among the low trees--2 females, 3 cubs, and the invisible papa. We watch the cubs for a long time as they face us with their golden eyes.
Later that day, I am sitting in the seat on top of the Land Rover and we find elephants--and then more elephants--and then elephants with beautiful dark-brown baboons. It is an abundant day in the relatively lush riverbed.
Now we are in our airport hotel in Johannesburg;
we arrived late last night from the Skeleton Coast. First in our
12-seat Cessna flying over the roadless land to Windhoek, the capital of
Namibia. Then on an Air Namibia flight to J'burg with rows closer than
any I have ever experienced. None of the seat backs recline, thank
heavens. We fly home tonight and have the luxury of a completely
unstructured day in our hotel. Reading, napping, snacking, and a long
hot shower and no bucket. Getting up our strength for our approximately
25 hours of travel.
This morning at 6:45 (our sleep-in morning)
we heard singing. In the lobby atrium 20 staff--many wearing local
dress--are singing at the top of their voices and moving their feet in
rhythmic dancing. They go on for more than a half-hour. What a
glorious way to be awoken, even at that hour. John and I make our
French-press coffee and drink it in bed.
