Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Doro Nawas

NOV 11
Doro Nawas - In Africa most safari camps make a point of developing the camp around architecture that is sensitive to the local building styles and/or the immediate environment of the camp.
We arrived at camp today and were immediately struck with a sense of.... something other. The main lodge sits on top of a dark rocky outcropping and its design is dark and rectangular and foreboding. I think Michael immediately thought of Mordor from the Lord of the Ring trilogy. Being a trained architect, my first thought was that the structure had been designed by rhinos. What were they thinking? In Google Earth, we are at 20°26'55.90"S / 14°18'12.27"E.

NOV 12
We spend the day in the vicinity of camp - first on a search for local desert-adapted elephants, which look different from, but are not a separate species from other African elephants. Off road through sandy riverbeds, following radio reports from other guides. After several attempts we find them, and walk a short distance from the land rovers for a better look.

A group of nine, including several infants. Our guide, Rosta, is cautious and leads us back to the vehicles.

Further down the road is a site of protected rock petroglyphs at Twyfelfontein (another cool name, meaning doubtful spring)




that were created by Bushmen artists maybe 2-6 thousand years ago. I have to digress and mention the design of the wonderful new visitor center, which is made from 50 gallon oil drums and from loose rock 'gabion' walls. I learn that the architect is a Namibian woman named Nina Maritz and I am very happy to discover this place. We walk along the valley edge looking at the different depictions of giraffe, elephant, lion, springbok and everything else important to these people's lives. Lizards and a poisonous puff adder make the walk more interesting.

For information about Nina Maritz:
http://www.architectureweek.com/2007/0613/environment_1-1.html













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