Kulala

NOV 8
Kulala - The Cape Turtle Dove has a distinct call. Generations of African mothers have told their children that he is saying 'work-hard-er...work-hard-er' As children grow older they sometimes hear other things in his call. One guide that I met on a previous trip could swear that he heard 'drink-la-ger....'
Here at Kulala Lodge, at the edge of a huge field of sand dunes, we hear his call only early in the morning before the sun heats the air to 95 deg +. During the heat of the day, the guest schedule includes a sensible siesta.

Our first day begins at 5:00 with a wake up call for a hot air balloon ride. We arrive and are advised that the wind is picking up and are rushed into the basket for a 'sport take off' - on hands and knees with the basket on it's side - 12 of us in 4 separate compartments

Dune

. This is about the time that second thoughts kick in as the pilot is shouting directions to the ground crew and the balloon fills, shifting in the wind. Unfortunately(?) he aborts at the last second for safety concerns, but we get coffee, croissants and a beautiful sunrise as a conciliation prize.

Later in the morning we drive into the sand dunes to Sossusvlei, the termination of a dry river bed that occasionally floods, bringing life to the area. Part of this most amazing area was blocked off by the moving sand dunes and trees were denied their water source. Dead trees, estimated to be 500 - 1200 years old stand in a white depression - pan. If you see postcards from Namibia, this is where they were taken.

NOV 9
Sossusvlei to Swakupmund - Another longish drive - 7:30 to 2:00 - funny, the country didn't LOOK that big on the map. Twice the size of California, but the gravel roads make for tiresome driving. We travel through some desolate country, spotting occasional zebra, ostrich and oryx,. The trip continues through the Gravel Plains - no additional description needed. We arrive at the coast, for a brief departure from safari camp life. Swakupmund is a beach resort with tidy vacation homes, but nobody is here... it is Sunday and people are serious about the day of rest idea here in Namibia.

We have two guides leading us with wildly different styles and personalities. Corna's family settled in the northern part of the country generations ago, and she sees the land as it has changed through a war that was hard on all its people. She has a big heart is quite motherly to all of us. Our other guide is Rosta, who moved to Namibia from the Czech Republic about 8 years ago. He runs on Coca-Cola and is always about 10 miles ahead of Corna.