Patience

July 31- One of my traveling companions, Bern, is a very spiritual guy. Shortly before leaving home he received a package from Boojum with a baseball cap - the package was swarming with ants. His first reaction was "what the ....." - his second reaction, after scattering the ants in his yard, was to look up any reference to ants in a Native American animal spirit book. They signify patience. This was to be an important lesson for the next couple of days.

Because the airline had "lost our reservations" it had been necessary to arrange a charter, but the only available time slot was at night and Olgiy, our destination, did not have landing lights at the dirt airfield. So the flight was now to go to Hovd, about a six hour drive away. So, with that as the preamble, the bus to the airport broke down, the plane was late, we arrived close to midnight at a marginal hotel in Hovd (described by one of our guides as "a hole in the ground").

The next morning we set off at 7:00 am in a caravan of five Russian vans with local drivers and did not arrive at our camp until after 11:00 pm - 16 hours. The seven people in our van get along well but get rather punchy after about the fifth stop to repair a broken vehicle. Our van is special - Carol and Marsha have bought a large bag of ribbons (don't ask) and the vehicle is festooned with color.

We like our driver too - he seems to have repaired the front wheel bearing problem with no after effects. One vehicle was finally declared without breaks and passengers were distributed into other vans, but driver and luggage continue on. 

We all stop at the bottom of a steep grade to watch the driver descend with no breaks, but he manages well.

After dark, our driver and one other van are lost finding the camp and we are almost the last to arrive. Amazing starry sky.

The next morning we see where we are. This must be the place.

Hovsgol Lake

July 25 - This morning I awoke to a high overcast sky - looks like it's going to rain, I have picked up a cold, and I'm not looking forward to today's 10 hour drive to Hovsgol Lake. I know all those problems will pass, but I'm not greeting the day with any degree of enthusiasm. The drive does turn out to be trying, but not without interest. We stop at at small town to buy water & snacks, and are approached by a man looking for a ride for his niece to Moron, about 135 km north .

The uncle will be traveling with a buddy on his motorcycle, but thinks the weather (rain) would not be good for the little girl. So she joins us but it is not too far before we have to stop because she is carsick. Molor has the situation in hand and puts a piece of clear packing tape over her bellybutton - and presto! A cure I have never seen before. The day does turn out to be long with a steady light rain for most of the day. It clears later and we visit a site of deer stones - monuments placed around 600-800ad to mark the death of leaders and their passage to heaven as deer spirits. We continue on to our ger camp at Lake Hovsgol which is a long day - ended up being 11+ hours. The gers have wood stoves to heat the space, and mine is cooking away now. Planning on sleeping well.

July 26 - Our second day at the lake is a rainy day on & off - a lot cooler too so the wood stove in the center of my ger is put to good use. I use the day as a rest day and try to shake off the cold that is slowing me down. Dennis & Babs went on a horseback ride to a local family's ger and had a good time eating yogurt and watching sumo wrestling on their tv - Mongolians are making their way into Japanese sumo, and everyone was happy when the Mongolian won his match. Shower water is heated by a wood furnace which is started when you are ready to shower. Being further north, there are many more solid log built structures. We visit the town for a little while and see the visitor center for this national park area. The lake is sacred to many Mongolians, and is deep and cold. - we are camped near the outlet which drains into Lake Bakal in Russia. Right now it's late and the rain is really coming down. Hope it lets up by the time we get on the road tomorrow to get to the airport at Moron.

Into the Green

 July 22 - Today we continue north and the countryside gradually evolves from open grass plain to tree covered hills. The road is intermittently paved, but he condition is not so good, so cars drive on the shoulders to avoid bumpy sections of road. Stopping at the active monastery at Kharkhorin, we spend time wandering with tourists and worshipers. Molor tries to describe each relic or deity, but Buddhism seems hopelessly complex to me. I focus on the architecture and on people watching. There is one family wandering together that obviously represents three (or maybe more) very different generations of Mongolians. I see two young monks studying something - holy text perhaps? When I look, it turns out they are texting on their cell phone. We continue on, finally getting of the main road and climbing up into some of the most beautiful valleys I have seen anywhere. Our ger camp is at a hot springs so we get a chance to sooth road weary bodies. Green hillsides covered with herds of horses, and a couple of yaks. Before dinner, Molor has come by a pot of fermented mare's milk which we all share - refreshing in a tangy yogurt kind of way. If my stomach has no complaints, I would try it again. To bed by the sound of camp generator and distant thunder.

July 23 - Well, OK, I know there is no such thing as too much good scenery, but today came pretty close. The drive was about 9 hours through some remarkably beautiful valleys - think the best parts of Montana and also think Julie Andrews singing "the hills are alive..." The beauty is extended by maybe two hours because we are misdirected (don't say lost) due to some bad route information from another driver. That's our story and we are sticking to it. Honestly, I don't have a clue how Banya gets us around from place to place. Maybe 40 percent of today was on main roads, which means graded dirt or gravel. The rest was on dirt tracks, or better yet, overland. One hill looks much the same as another, and no road signs give any clues as to location. The only direction finder seems to be a network of fellow travelers who give reports on road conditions, etc. (Stop, trade a cigarette or packaged cupcake and chat for a while about the weather and maybe you'll get some good information) The route was studded with wildflowers of yellow, purple and white. Hills, valleys, rivers, goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, horses, herders on horseback - you get the picture. Tonight's camp is on the shore of a beautiful lake in a national park - volcanic landscape surrounds us - it's quite remarkable.

July 24 - This morning the seagulls woke me at 6:00. The lake is home to gulls, cormorants, grebes, and all manner of waterfowl. After breakfast, we drive a short distance to climb a small dormant volcano, and are treated with great views of the valley below. Driving north, we see open grassland, transitioning into wooded hills & valleys. Travel miles on paved or graded roads: 0. We go over a high forested pass to reach our ger camp - it is in a stand of trees, beside meadow and river. I think there is a pattern developing - each site seems more beautiful than the ones before. Sitting here among the trees, it is amazing to think the trip began in the open desert.

Going North

 
July 20 - From the sand dunes to Ongi monastery ruins is a straight eight hour drive through dry hostile terrain. Yawei (let's go) is at 7:45. We see maybe a total of a dozen vehicles, including a young man herding camels from a motorbike. The monastery site is a relic of a sad story. Located in a beautiful valley, two sprawling monasteries were destroyed by the Soviets in the 1930's - monks taken away and murdered. Today local kids are paying basketball on a small outdoor court. I try Chengis Vodka (not to be confused with Chengis Khan Vodka) which is also quite good.



July 21 - Babs reports a good night of orb photography, over breakfast of bread w/butter & jam, fried egg and hot dog. We are packed and on the road by 8:30. Today's route is increasingly green with herds of sheep, goats, cattle and later, yaks. I discover that yaks and cattle can be crossbred, making a funny looking thing indeed - I can't remember what they are called. The flat plain turns to rolling hills and shallow valleys before we have our inevitable breakdown. Over a big dip, a loud bang is followed by some mutterings from Bayna, our driver. Car is jacked up, wheel comes off and the problem is revealed as a broken suspension rod - one half inch steel rod, snapped like a twig. Not to worry - the in-the-field fix involves a block of wood and some twine to hold it in place until we can find a replacement. The fix holds until we reach our ger camp on a lush green hillside - 5:00 pm. Before arriving, we come across the first section of paved road since leaving UB. We travel in luxury for about 6 miles before our camp. Each ger camp has been different; all funky in their own way. This camp is pretty large, but with almost no guests except us and one German man that we met before dinner. The floor of my ger is carpet and what looks like vinyl shelf paper. There is a hook in the middle of the floor, sometimes used as part of a system to hang a rope from the roof to stabilize the structure in heavy winds - no rope here, so all it is doing today is stubbing my toe, so I rearrange the furniture.
Update -It's now 8:15 and Bayna has returned - he is our hero, having made it to the nearest town and scrounged a part to repair the van. He is a happy man and we are in good shape to continue the journey tomorrow.

Molor and Bayna

Our hosts for these travels are Molor (sounds like the tooth but with the accent at the end) and Baynaha (Goes by Bayna). Molor was brought up in the center of the country and is studying in UB during the winter. Her parents are geologists and named her "Topaz". She is totally chatty with Bayna during the long drives - laughing and singing a lot. Very modern woman, but she does own a traditional Mongolian coat - a del for holiday functions. She's never left Mongolia, but when she does, she would like to see Egypt.

Bayna is about 40, is married with two daughters, and worked for a while in Korea where he bought his van. His name means "wealthy boy". He has never left Mongolia, other than his work in Korea, but would like to visit Africa. I noticed that he doesn't shave - he says that's what he does until the last day of a trip, when he returns to his wife in UB. Bayna doesn't own any traditional clothing, but says maybe he will buy some "when he gets old".

Gobi

July 17 - Flight to Dalanzadag is on an German Fokker 50 via Aero Mongolia - high wing turboprop. After arrival our driver, Bayna, gets a traffic ticket for not wearing his seat belt - $4.00. We start off on the beginning of a long dirt road across the Gobi desert going to the north. Mongolia has a grand total of 600 miles of paved roads.

At Yolyn Am, a beautiful canyon with a section of perpetual ice, we see four ibex high on the side of the canyon. Along today is a couple from North Carolina - he is a biologist and birder who wants to see the bearded vulture - we spot only one soaring above the top of the canyon. Cute little pica are all over the ground and pose for everyone's pictures.

We are traveling in a comfortable 4-wheel drive Mitsibushi van, owned by our driver. The road is outlandishly rough in places, crossing dry streambeds. I have no idea how the driver finds his way - the countryside is featureless with a web of crisscrossing dirt paths. Sometimes he takes a shortcut across the desert (when he realizes that he is on the wrong path?). Landscape is flat with sparse short dry grass. An occasional herder dwelling dots the countryside, but we can drive for an hour without seeing anything.

Ger (Russian word is yurt, but don't call it that here) camp is not very crowded and the bed is hard, but I sleep well. I am by myself so I get assigned a smaller ger - keep hitting my head. Beautiful moonrise.



July 18 - We are on the road by 9:00 to see the famous Flaming Cliffs, where an American led expedition in the 20's made a major find of dinosaur fossils, including eggs in nests. When we get there, I am a little disappointed. Although the landscape is beautiful (like Arizona maybe) the area is small - maybe a square mile, in the middle of the otherwise featureless landscape. At the top of the cliffs are a collection of souvenir stands, and I am compelled to buy a bone. The rest of the day is a long 6 hr drive to the next ger camp at the sand dunes of Khongoryn Els. The day is overcast with occasional sprinkles of rain. We stop at a scenic picnic spot, in-between rain showers. The ger camp at the sand dunes is larger, with a mix of mostly English or German speaking visitors. After dinner we try a warm glass of Chengis Khan vodka, which is quite good - a legacy of the Russian influence on the Mongolian culture. The local beer is also very good. Another beautiful moonrise, which I watch with my traveling partners, Dennis and 'Babs" from the Olympic Peninsula. Babs is concentrating on photographing 'orbs' which I had never heard of. They are little mysterious specks of light which sometimes show up on camera exposures, which are not visible to the eye. Babs is one of a whole culture of orb believers, but Dennis is skeptical. She does get some images on her camera, which when enlarged are hexagons with some fine weblike structure inside them (cue the twilight zone theme).














July 19 - is camel riding day.

Molor has arranged with a nearby herder family to take us out to the sand dunes. My camel is a handsome devil, but I am not convinced of his abilities. They are all a little obstinate, but are persuaded into activity by tugs on a set of wood stakes through the nose.

Out to the sand dunes is a couple of kilometers from the herder's ger, but it is enough to make you feel sure that you are not in Kansas anymore.

In the afternoon we drive to the singing dunes where we take our shoes off and climb up a huge dune - but only partway. On the way back, the sun has come out and the once warm sand is now frying pan hot. Run to the van with stops every fifteen paces to bury our feet in to a cooler layer of the sand. We make it back without permanent injury.

Leaving Beijing

Before going to the Great Wall on Sunday, I went for a walk by myself to a city park that Aileen, my "China Helper" had recommended. Just north of the Forbidden City with a big hill overlooking the city. Sunday was great weather and the park was packed with Chinese locals doing every possible activity that might be done - tai chi, western dance lessons, singing, badminton, playing cards, that rhythmic dance thing with the big ribbon, and more. Old, young, and in-between. I spent about 1-½ hours there and did not see one westerner among the thousands of visitors. It was pretty cool. On that subject, I think I was expecting more westerners around town, but maybe they are holding off until closer to the start of the Olympics. I nearly had the city to myself.

Monday in Beijing was spent in intermittent rain with Aileen, visits to Tiananmin Square-packed with Chinese visitors, National Theater (The Egg), Forbidden City, also packed with Chinese visitors and an amazing series of temples, official building, courtyards, and royal residence buildings. 9,999 rooms it is said - one short of the god's perfect number of 10,000. Then a long taxi (with roof light that says "taxi") ride to Olympic Park to try to see some of the new construction - Birds Nest and Water Cube, etc. Good idea but it was not to be - the area is cordoned off by metal fencing with guards every 50 yards. That didn't stop the area from being packed with, yes, Chinese visitors who were taking pictures of kids up against the fence with the buildings in the haze a quarter mile away. Disappointing. After that, Aileen kinda forced me into going to see the Chinese Acrobat show. I was initially reluctant, but I was blown away - had to buy the DVD after the show.

Beijing to UB

Tuesday is the train to Mongolia. Passengers are a mix of Chinese and westerners, including Europeans with backpacks, a Swiss architect from Singapore, one guy from New York. I have carriage #6, berth #9 to myself even thought it is a double. I am happy. The scenery has been beautiful. Mountains followed by lush green hills & valleys, followed by grassland. All punctuated by an amazing variety of towns, villages & cities - some quite ancient and literally eroding away, some modern and growing. All along the way there has been a continuous stream of construction projects - roads, bridges, railway improvements. I'm quite stunned. Dining car is supplemented by vendors with carts at the stations when we stop. The young waiter at the dining car gets quite grouchy when you give him a large bill - 100 yuan for a 32 yuan meal of stir fry pork & mushrooms / rice / coke - about $5.50. Pretty reasonable, but that was offset by the 120 yuan pot of tea at my hotel. I think the new market economy in China means that prices are all over the place, depending on who you are. We enter the Gobi at about 6:30 pm. We will reach the border at 8:37 according to the conductor. No reason to doubt him because the train left Beijing exactly on time - 7:45 am. Train is scheduled to get into Ulaan Baater at 1:20 pm tomorrow. Long stopover at the border while they jack up the cars to change out the wheel assembly things - China and Mongolia have different gauge railways.

Wednesday morning sunrise and we are still in the Gobi - very flat, very brown. It slowly turns to green grassland as we climb in altitude a bit. The train magically replaced the Chinese dining car with a Mongolia dining car during the wheel switching. The car is a wild Mongolian art festival on wheels - carvings, musical instruments, tapestry seat covers, etc.



We reach Ulaan Baatar (UB) exactly one minute late - I am very impressed. Met by Molar, my guide from Boojum Expeditions - she gets me checked into the hotel.

I will be happy to leave the city quickly tomorrow and get back to the countryside - The whole place suffers from too many years under Russian domination. Now the city is starting a building boom, so it's the worst of two worlds.

Great Wall

 When Nixon came to China I think he said the memorable line "It really is a great wall." The Mutainyu section is a little further away than the more heavily visited Badaling area, but it is remarkable. My guide told a story of the Chinese proverb that says you become a man when you climb the Great Wall - so I'm thinking "climb?", must be something lost in the translation... Wrong - it is steep as HELL.