Chez Naomi+Peter

Naomi and Peter are fixing up a house they have bought here in town. It might be described as having great potential - so you know what that means, but they seem to be enjoying the challenge of adding their touch to a structure that has been upgraded in phases over maybe four hundred years. There is a yard in back that butts against the ancient city wall, and the rear wall of the kitchen exposes the Luberon bedrock because the whole town is cut into the hillside to one degree or another. The skinny spiral stairs winds from the entry to the attic, with the back yard up a flight and a half. In the dining room, there is a beam that projects six inches out of the wall - the rest of it seems to belong to their neighbors. I enjoy seeing the door hardware which I find peculiar but it must be pretty common in the region. 

Floors are mostly ancient red tile and they plan to preserve them and maintain the character common to the region. The big chore is renovating the ancient plumbing and heating systems. Naomi did not enjoy hefting the new bathtub up that stair. I doubt that Pete did either, but he is a bit more stoic when discussing it. The oak dining table has been a setting for some remarkable spontaneous meals with all manner of fresh, local foods. Tonight is to be more of the same and I look forward to it.

  

 

Market at Apt

We are stayng in St. Saturin-les-Apt; a sweet little village in the center of the Luberon region of France. It is a very quite village, mostly unaffected by the tourist nature of the region. In fact, it is just barely big enough for two hotels, and we are among only four guests in Le Hotel Saint Hubert, close to Naomi and Pete whom we are visiting. Lisa gets her room key, which is on a heavy brass fob with the hotel name engraved, misspelled "Saint Mubert". Today is Saturday and that is market day in the nearby larger town of Apt. Naomi is our guide for the market, which sprawls around the streets of the old part of town, where the streets are cobblestones that have been worn to a polished finish over time. It market is a sea of local produce, crafts, jewelry, street musicians, candy, bread, cheese, meats, fish, and all manner of clothing. I am tempted by some Panama hats, but I just can't imagine wearing one back in Long Beach. I do find some spices that I can use, and and the price is good. Lisa and Naomi find plenty of things to try on and come away with a modest collection of tops and pants. A brief stop for a cafe creme (sorry, no accents on my keyboard) and we continue on to collect bread, strawberries, melons, jambon cru (prosciutto), three cheeses, apricots, pate with mushrooms, smoked salmon, and a bottle of rose wine before returning to Naomi's house to consume it all in at the old oak kitchen table

 

 

Barcelona Abstract

 

Modernista

 

 

Barcelona is rightfully proud of it's Modernista architectural history. Antonio Gaudi was only one of the designers of the era around the turn of the 19th century. So much to see around town.

Costa Brava

The cost here is rough and rugged, with numerous small sandy or rocky coves. We are walking the coastal route on the weekend, and all the coves are full of small boats and families onshore enjoying the sun. The trail is very much an up-and-down, in-and-out affair, with several scrambles across bare rocky patches. One steep decent reaches a teeny, tiny little cove that has a small cafe which is open in the summer. Beer and lemonade makes a refreshing combo. The cafe is run by a family who must stock their supplies by boat and I am sure no safe landing is possible in rough surf. Some of the coves are small villages, now full of summer vacationing crowds, postcards, and ice cream. 

The views from high on the trail are stunning. Near the end of the day we are at a viewpoint with 15th century watchtower, modern lighthouse, and even more modern cell phone tower. I offer to take a group photo of a family celebrating Grandma's 80th birthday and I am rewarded with a glass of cava - local Catalan champagne.