Thursday, February 6, 2014

Worst Road, Best Driver


We are going to the Serengeti and the day actually starts with an easy section of newly completed road, built by the French. We see some young boys, wrapped in red Masai cloth, herding cattle or goats along the edges of the road. Along the way, we also see others of the same age in school uniforms walking to class. Interesting contrast. We turn left from the French road onto the recently completed Japanese road, which seems not as smooth as the French road and already has sections under repair. From there things go downhill quickly as we enter the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and endure mile after mile of the worst bone jarring washboard roads I have ever seen or felt. Our driver is Mohamad - he is intently focused and handles our Land Rover skillfully, as he has done for 16 years. He is an experienced guide with knowledge of all wildlife in addition to his driving skills. His wide, Magic Johnson like face is a good setting for a broad smile. We manage to avoid cattle, goats, zebra, and wildebeest that are taken with the urge to be on the opposite side of the road. Passing vehicles stur up a fine dust that penetrates everything - some of us wear bananas, cowboy outlaw style, for protection and we get into a routine of opening and shutting the sliding windows. Relief only comes when we enter the Serengeti National Park and we find our way onto 'tracks' that are much smoother than the 'roads'. It's no surprise that we are extatic to reach our campsite after nearly ten hours on the road. This is to be our home for five days.
It is now later in the day and I am sitting in my tent in the heart of the Serengeti with a thunderstorm rolling in. During our first camp dinner we could see the lightning flashes growing closer from the north giving plenty of warning. After desert of pineapple tart, I dash to my tent just as the first drops start to fall, hunker down in bed and wait for the show. Doesn't take long for the rain to pour and for thunder to shake the sky. These are the seasonal rains that draw the migrating wildebeest heards south to feed on nutrient rich Serengeti grasses. Thompson Safaris has set up this temporary camp in the Moru Koppies area of the park. It is self sufficient and limited lighting is provided by solar panels, beer is on dry ice, and I haven't seen the kitchen yet to see how food prep is done,  but dinner was wonderful.  Overnight I am awakened several times as heavy rain comes and goes, but without thunder this time. The tent is a sturdy thing and it keeps me dry. It is a comfortable thing too, with a partitioned shower area and separate area for the camp toilet. 



1 comment:

  1. Looks gorgeous there. I love the photo of the Masai herdsmen. The contrast of the bold red against the green plain is striking. You description of the rain reminds me of a children's book called "Bringing the Rain to Kapiti Plain," in which a young boy shoots an arrow into the sky and makes it rain. Sounds as if he shot more than one arrow last night (or is it tonight?)!

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