July 22 - Today we continue north and the countryside gradually evolves
from open grass plain to tree covered hills. The road is intermittently
paved, but he condition is not so good, so cars drive on the shoulders
to avoid bumpy sections of road. Stopping at the active monastery at
Kharkhorin, we spend time wandering with tourists and worshipers. Molor
tries to describe each relic or deity, but Buddhism seems hopelessly
complex to me. I focus on the architecture and on people watching. There
is one family wandering together that obviously represents three (or
maybe more) very different generations of Mongolians. I see two young
monks studying something - holy text perhaps? When I look, it turns out
they are texting on their cell phone. We continue on, finally getting of
the main road and climbing up into some of the most beautiful valleys I
have seen anywhere. Our ger camp is at a hot springs so we get a chance
to sooth road weary bodies. Green hillsides covered with herds of
horses, and a couple of yaks. Before dinner, Molor has come by a pot of
fermented mare's milk which we all share - refreshing in a tangy yogurt
kind of way. If my stomach has no complaints, I would try it again. To
bed by the sound of camp generator and distant thunder.
July 23 -
Well, OK, I know there is no such thing as too much good scenery, but
today came pretty close. The drive was about 9 hours through some
remarkably beautiful valleys - think the best parts of Montana and also
think Julie Andrews singing "the hills are alive..." The beauty is
extended by maybe two hours because we are misdirected (don't say lost)
due to some bad route information from another driver. That's our story
and we are sticking to it. Honestly, I don't have a clue how Banya gets
us around from place to place. Maybe 40 percent of today was on main
roads, which means graded dirt or gravel. The rest was on dirt tracks,
or better yet, overland. One hill looks much the same as another, and
no road signs give any clues as to location. The only direction finder
seems to be a network of fellow travelers who give reports on road
conditions, etc. (Stop, trade a cigarette or packaged cupcake and chat
for a while about the weather and maybe you'll get some good
information) The route was studded with wildflowers of yellow, purple
and white. Hills, valleys, rivers, goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, horses,
herders on horseback - you get the picture. Tonight's camp is on the
shore of a beautiful lake in a national park - volcanic landscape
surrounds us - it's quite remarkable.
July 24 - This morning the
seagulls woke me at 6:00. The lake is home to gulls, cormorants, grebes,
and all manner of waterfowl. After breakfast, we drive a short distance
to climb a small dormant volcano, and are treated with great views of
the valley below. Driving north, we see open grassland, transitioning
into wooded hills & valleys. Travel miles on paved or graded roads:
0. We go over a high forested pass to reach our ger camp - it is in a
stand of trees, beside meadow and river. I think there is a pattern
developing - each site seems more beautiful than the ones before.
Sitting here among the trees, it is amazing to think the trip began in
the open desert.
July 23 -
Well, OK, I know there is no such thing as too much good scenery, but
today came pretty close. The drive was about 9 hours through some
remarkably beautiful valleys - think the best parts of Montana and also
think Julie Andrews singing "the hills are alive..." The beauty is
extended by maybe two hours because we are misdirected (don't say lost)
due to some bad route information from another driver. That's our story
and we are sticking to it. Honestly, I don't have a clue how Banya gets
us around from place to place. Maybe 40 percent of today was on main
roads, which means graded dirt or gravel. The rest was on dirt tracks,
or better yet, overland. One hill looks much the same as another, and
no road signs give any clues as to location. The only direction finder
seems to be a network of fellow travelers who give reports on road
conditions, etc. (Stop, trade a cigarette or packaged cupcake and chat
for a while about the weather and maybe you'll get some good
information) The route was studded with wildflowers of yellow, purple
and white. Hills, valleys, rivers, goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, horses,
herders on horseback - you get the picture. Tonight's camp is on the
shore of a beautiful lake in a national park - volcanic landscape
surrounds us - it's quite remarkable.
July 24 - This morning the
seagulls woke me at 6:00. The lake is home to gulls, cormorants, grebes,
and all manner of waterfowl. After breakfast, we drive a short distance
to climb a small dormant volcano, and are treated with great views of
the valley below. Driving north, we see open grassland, transitioning
into wooded hills & valleys. Travel miles on paved or graded roads:
0. We go over a high forested pass to reach our ger camp - it is in a
stand of trees, beside meadow and river. I think there is a pattern
developing - each site seems more beautiful than the ones before.
Sitting here among the trees, it is amazing to think the trip began in
the open desert.
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