Beijing is a spectacularly large city, partly because they have just gotten around to building skyscrapers. Much of the city is mid-height and stretches on forever, but the universal feature that catches my eye is the broad tree lined streets and boulevards. The city has an honest feel, as cities go. We have a tour guide who goes by Steve for his English name. The name was given by his English teacher, and it stuck. Steve says there are seven highlights when visiting Beijing and there is no way we can see them all in the time we have. We choose the ones we think we will enjoy and we are not disappointed.
TEMPLE OF HEAVEN
This is not a temple, but an ongoing party for Beijing residents. It is a huge park complex, once used by the Emperor, but now is popular for family recreation.
We visit during the week and I see crowds of people, mainly older, being active in all manner of ways. A whole area is simple exercise equipment that is well used - everyone has some way to make use of the equipment. Bending, stretching, pulling, pushing. A troop of ethnic dancers keep the crowd smiling.
An old man demonstrates his calligraphy with a damp brush on the dusty stone pavement. Fifty couples do the foxtrot to Chinese music.
Several groups practice something like hacky sack with a feathered ball. Music and karaoke singers are everywhere. Rhythmic dancing with bright colored ribbons. And of course, card playing and gambling. All of this eclipses appreciation the temple structures which are, by the way, magnificent. Lunch is at a large, noisy noodle house but it hits the spot.
FORBIDDEN CITY
The heart of Beijing is former residence of the Emperor and his family originally built in the early 1400's, and the place is only about as big as Central Park. Whoever is in charge of counting, came up with 9,999 rooms - respectfully, one less than heavenly perfection. The primary entry is from the south, under the ever youthful portrait of Chairman Mao. Police and military are nearby, but the atmosphere is upbeat and expectant. The military Honor Guard is impressive - (all members are chosen to be 1.83 meters in height). Families pose for pictures everywhere.
Plazas and courtyards lead into the inner heart of the complex where every structure seems to have a throne room. In one building, ceramics are on display which could have been made today but are thousands of years old. Huge bronze urns once held water to protect against fire and show the scratches where invading foreign troops scraped off the gold plating with their bayonets during the Boxer rebellion. Bronze trim on hundreds of doors show the polish of millions of fingers outlining the dragon motif.
By the end of the day, we are worn out and beg Steve to cut the tour short. It is a rush to the Chinese Acrobat Show for a 1 hour show that is a lot of fun. Dinner is another food highlight with Beijing Duck at a popular restaurant. I think during this whole trip there have been only two meals that missed being exceptional.
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