Wednesday, October 21, 2009

The 500 Pound Gorilla in the Room

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Unfortunately, Rwanda has become a name that we identify with the worst side of humanity. We have had a wonderful visit to the country, but on our last full day in Africa we do the most difficult thing and visit the Genocide Museum in Kigali. It is a modest structure that sits on a hillside overlooking the heart of the capital and serves both as an education tool to humanity and as the resting place to the remains of 300,000 who were killed in this city alone - many by their neighbors, relatives, or those who they thought of as friends. They are only some of the million or so who were killed in the name of something that is hard to understand, but has happened more than once in our world. We come as tourists from another land and try to get our heads around what happened, and more importantly what this country and its people must do to heal. After the visit to heartbreaking exhibits I look over the city which is now clean, tidy, and full of commercial enterprise and new construction – I try to imagine what is below the surface that people here deal with every day
. Much has happened since the horrors and all outward signs are remarkably positive while this country trys to learn and create an identity based on country, rather than tribal bonds. On the two hour drive from our last lodge, we passed through a beautiful hilly farming country and an amazing number of people on foot, sharing the road with our vehicles. They all have daily chores that occupy their thoughts, but each has some painful memory of the madness that they must deal with. Easy for me to dismiss it as madness, but the government here is making an extraordinary effort to learn from what happened and not to sweep it under the rug. I came to the Museum foolishly thinking that it would explain all of this to me. For me, I admit that I still can't understand.

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